Belgrade street food is more than food. Street food places are socializing spots. That is something unique to Belgrade. Ever since we were teenagers, the nightlife debutants, best of nights out ended by eating pljeskavica or fried cheese at Loki’s in Dorćol or steamy burek straight from the oven at a bakery.
So, what is the top 3 of Belgrade street food?
The champion is pljeskavica, a burger shaped minced pork and beef on grill. It’s put in a bun or in a somun (slower fermentation dough) and dressed with dips or fresh or pickled veggies. Those who like it hot will have their pljeska with urnebes, which is a spread made of hot ajvar and cream cheese. The classic addition is onion. My combo of choice is mustard, a bit of ketchup, a bit of sour cream and a lot of fresh cabbage.
Where? Mara at Vračar at 14 Novopazarska street, close to Kalenić Market. The place where chefs go for pljeskavica, not to mention us regular people. Working hours are 9 to midnight. Cars not accepted. Price is around 2.5 EUR.
Best time to have pljeskavica would probably be lunch or dinner, but no strict rules apply here. Whenever you feel like it.
It’s philo pastry. Simply flour, water and salt. And lard to make it greasy and golden brown. It’s left to ferment overnight and the capable hands of masters make it very thin before baking it. Burek can be stuffed with meet or white cheese or not stuffed at all. The latter is my favorite, called prazan, meaning empty.
Where? Ljupče at 48 Dalmatinska Street, close to the Botanical Garden or Petrović at 20 Zmaj Jovina in atmospheric Zemun, next to the farmers market. They open as early as 6am and close relatively early in the afternoon. Luckily, there is a 24/7 place at 3 Cara Nikolaja in Vračar, across the Čubura Park.
It costs less then 1 EUR for 250 grams. Be sure to drink local yoghurt with it. It’s liquid, lightly sour and refrigerated that makes a perfect contrast to the smoking hot burek! Cards not accepted.
I take it for breakfast to feel least guilty. It’s also a great hangover food.
Belgrade is probably the only place on earth where pizza is served with spreads like beef or chicken salad on top. For a selection of spreads to add to your pizza slice, visit Bucko (meaning Chubby) at two locations: 16 Francuska at the very center close to the Republic Square and 56 Beogradska at Vračar, close to Slavija Square. People always queuing in front. 24/7, cold or heat. A slice costs around 1 EUR.
For more of Belgrade street food, roam around Kalenić Farmers’ Market in Vračar. Try ćevapi at Lenče grill right their on the market at Njegoševa Street or girice, fried sea fish, something like whitebait fritters, at one of the shops next to Lenče. If you like pastry do not miss perece at Rada Bakery at the nearby Mutapova street. They literally melt in your mouth.
If you prefer a guided farmers market tour with tastings we will be delighted to take you. Prijatno!